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Motorcycle Riding Safety Basics for Beginners
Motorcycle Riding Safety Basics for Beginners — a free beginner-level guide covering motorcycle riding safety basics for beginners. Learn with clear...
What you will learn
- 1. Motorcycle Basics and Terminology
- 2. Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)
- 3. Pre‑Ride Inspection Checklist
- 4. Basic Riding Controls and Body Position
- 5. Starting, Stopping, and Low‑Speed Maneuvers
- 6. Cornering Fundamentals
- 7. Braking Techniques and Emergency Stops
- 8. Riding in Traffic and Defensive Riding
- 9. Hazard Perception and Reaction
- 10. Riding in Varying Weather and Road Conditions
1. 1. Motorcycle Basics and Terminology
A First‑Ride Scenario Imagine you’re standing beside a sleek, silver motorcycle on a quiet city street. The engine hums faintly, the handlebars feel solid in your hands, and the foot pegs are just the right distance apart. A friend asks, “Ready to go?” As you slide onto the seat, you realize that every part you can see and touch has a purpose—some obvious, many hidden. Understanding what each component does and the language riders use to talk about them is the first step toward riding safely and confidently. --- Understanding the Motorcycle at a Glance A motorcycle can be broken down into three major families of parts: 1. Engine & Power‑train – produces the power that moves the bike forward. 2. Controls – let the rider command that power and manage speed, direction, and stopping. 3. Chassis & Suspension – hold everything together, support the rider, and determine how the bike behaves on the road. Each family influences handling, stability, and safety in its own way. The sections below unpack the most important pieces inside each family. Engine and Power‑train | Component | What It Is | Why It Matters for Handling & Safety | |-----------|------------|--------------------------------------| | Engine (cylinder, piston, crankcase) | The heart of the bike; most street bikes have a single‑cylinder, V‑twin, or inline‑four engine. | Engine weight and where that weight sits (front vs. rear) affect the bike’s center of gravity and thus how quickly it can change direction. | | Fuel System (carburetor or fuel injection) | Delivers the right amount of fuel to the engine. | A well‑tuned system provides smooth throttle response, reducing sudden surges that can upset traction. | | Exhaust | Routes burned gases away from the engine. | Excessive heat or a poorly designed exhaust can affect rider comfort and, in extreme cases, cause component failure. | | Transmission (gearbox) | A series of gears that multiply engine torque. | Proper gear selection lets the rider match engine power to road conditions, preventing loss of traction. | | Final Drive (chain, belt, or shaft) | Transfers power from the transmission to the rear wheel. | Chain tension, belt wear, or shaft alignment directly impact brake‑to‑acceleration balance. A slipping drive reduces the ability to accelerate out of a corner safely. | Key Takeaway: The engine’s output isn’t just about speed; it determines how much torque is available at the rear wheel, which in turn influences how the bike feels when you twist the throttle. A sudden rush of power on a slippery surface can cause a rear‑wheel slide, so understanding the engine’s character helps you choose a safe throttle application. Controls | Control | Common Name | Primary Function | Safety Impact …
2. 2. Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)
Why the Right Gear Can Mean the Difference Between a Close Call and a Life‑Saving Shield Imagine this: you’re cruising down a suburban street on a bright Saturday morning, the wind humming past your helmet. A car at the intersection decides to turn without looking, and you’re forced to swerve sharply. The bike leans, you instinctively grab the handlebars, and the impact is hard but brief. When you pull off the bike, the most obvious damage is a dented fender—but the real story is told by the gear on your body. A properly fitted helmet absorbs the shock to your skull, a reinforced jacket protects your torso, and sturdy boots keep your ankles from twisting. Without that gear, the same crash could result in serious head injury, broken ribs, or a sprained ankle that keeps you off the road for weeks. The purpose of this chapter is to give you the tools to choose, fit, and care for the five core pieces of personal protective equipment (PPE) that every rider should wear: helmet, jacket, gloves, boots, and pants. By the end, you’ll be able to match gear to your local climate and riding style, and you’ll know how to inspect each item so it continues to perform when you need it most. --- 1. The Five Essential Pieces of PPE | Gear | Primary Protection | Typical Materials | Key Features to Look For | |------|--------------------|-------------------|--------------------------| | Helmet | Head and brain | Expanded Polystyrene (EPS) foam core, outer shell (polycarbonate, fiberglass, carbon fiber) | DOT or ECE certification, full‑face vs. open‑face, adjustable fit system | | Jacket | Torso, shoulders, arms | Textile (Cordura, Kevlar‑blend), leather, or textile‑leather hybrids | Armor pockets, CE‑rated protectors, ventilation zippers | | Gloves | Hands, wrists, forearms | Leather (goatskin, kangaroo), textile with reinforced palms | CE‑rated knuckle protectors, wrist closure, grip texture | | Boots | Ankles, feet, shins | Full‑cover leather or reinforced textile, oil‑resistant soles | Ankle support, toe/heel protectors, anti‑slip tread | | Pants | Hips, thighs, knees | Textile (Cordura, Kevlar) or leather, often with removable armor | CE‑rated knee protectors, zip‑off or zip‑on design, stretch panels | Note: “CE‑rated” means the piece meets European safety standards for impact protection. In the United States, look for DOT or Snell certification for helmets, and Armor‑rated (often labeled “Level 2” or “Level 3”) for body armor. 1.1 Helmet – The Most Critical Piece Your head is the most vulnerable part of your body in a crash. A helmet that meets safety standards can reduce the risk of fatal head injury by up to 45 % (based on widely accepted crash‑statistics). Types of helmets | Type | Coverage | When to …
3. 3. Pre‑Ride Inspection Checklist
A Real‑World Wake‑Up Call Emma is gearing up for her first long‑distance ride with a group of friends. She slips on her helmet, gloves, and boots—everything from the PPE chapter is in place. As she steps toward her bike, a faint squeak catches her ear. She pauses, runs a hand along the rear wheel, and notices a small crack in the tire sidewall. A quick visual check reveals a loose chain and a dim rear brake light. By taking a few extra minutes before she starts the engine, Emma avoids a potentially dangerous situation on the highway. That moment illustrates why a pre‑ride inspection is as essential as the gear you wear. Consistently performing a systematic walk‑around helps you spot obvious problems, maintain confidence in your machine, and keep the focus where it belongs—on the road ahead. 1. The Walk‑Around: A Step‑by‑Step Visual Scan A visual walk‑around doesn’t require special tools; it’s a quick, methodical look at the most critical parts of the motorcycle. Follow the sequence clockwise (or counter‑clockwise) and keep your eyes trained on the items below. 1. Frame and Bodywork Look for dents, cracks, or rust on the frame, sub‑frame, and any exposed metal. Check that the fairings, plastics, and paint are securely attached—loose panels can become hazards in a crash. 2. Fuel System Inspect the fuel tank for dents or leaks. Verify the fuel cap seals tightly; a loose cap can cause vapor loss and fuel starvation. 3. Suspension Push down on the front fork and rear swingarm. The bike should rebound smoothly without excessive play. Look for oil leaks around the fork seals and rear shock. 4. Chain / Belt / Shaft Drive Chain: Ensure the chain is not twisted, has even tension, and shows no stiff links. Belt: Look for cracks, fraying, or missing teeth on the sprockets. Shaft: Check the oil drain plug for leaks and confirm the shaft housing is clean. 5. Exhaust Scan for rust, holes, or loose mounting bolts. A leaking exhaust can overheat nearby components. 6. Foot Pegs and Controls Verify that foot pegs are firmly attached and free of cracks. Confirm the gear‑shift lever and clutch lever have smooth, free movement without binding. 7. Overall Cleanliness A clean bike makes it easier to spot leaks, cracks, and wear. Wipe away dirt that might hide problems. Quick Visual Checklist | Item | What to Look For | |------|------------------| | Frame | Dents, cracks, rust | | Fuel tank | Leaks, secure cap | | Suspension | Smooth rebound, no oil | | Drive train | Correct tension, no damage | | Exhaust | Holes, loose brackets | | Foot pegs & levers | Secure, smooth operation | | General …
4. 4. Basic Riding Controls and Body Position
A Real‑World Moment: The Light Turns Green You’re perched on a street‑legal sport‑tourer at a busy downtown intersection. The traffic light flickers from red to green, and in an instant you must move forward smoothly, signal a lane change, and merge with traffic that is already flowing at 35 mph. The difference between a confident, controlled launch and a jerky, startled start can be the difference between feeling safe and feeling exposed. Mastering the clutch, throttle, gears, and your own body position is the foundation that lets you turn that split‑second decision into a fluid motion every time you ride. --- Coordinating the Clutch and Throttle Why the Clutch Matters The clutch is the mechanical link between the engine’s power and the rear wheel. When the clutch lever is pulled in, the connection is broken, allowing the engine to spin freely without moving the bike. When the lever is released, power is transferred, propelling the motorcycle forward. Understanding this “on‑off” relationship is essential for smooth acceleration and deceleration. Throttle Basics Revisited The throttle controls how much fuel and air the engine receives, directly influencing engine speed (rpm). A gentle twist adds power; easing off reduces it. Because the throttle and clutch work together, mastering their coordination prevents the bike from lurching or stalling. Step‑by‑Step Smooth Acceleration 1. Select the appropriate gear – Usually first gear at a standstill, second gear when moving slowly. 2. Pull the clutch lever fully with your left hand. This isolates the engine from the rear wheel. 3. Roll on the throttle slowly with your right hand to raise rpm to the recommended range (consult your bike’s user manual; a common range for a beginner bike is 2,000–3,000 rpm in low gears). 4. Release the clutch gradually while continuing to increase throttle. Aim for a smooth, progressive release; the bike will begin to move forward as the clutch plates engage. 5. Maintain a steady throttle once the bike is moving, adjusting as needed for traffic or road conditions. Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them | Symptom | Likely Cause | Quick Fix | |---------|--------------|-----------| | Bike jerks forward sharply | Releasing clutch too fast or applying too much throttle at once | Practice a quarter‑turn of the throttle while releasing the clutch in a controlled, linear motion. | | Engine stalls (engine dies) | Releasing clutch before enough throttle is applied, or not reaching the minimum rpm | Keep the rpm above idle (usually ~1,200 rpm). Practice holding the throttle at a low, steady rpm before letting out the clutch. | | Excessive revving without forward motion | Clutch still fully disengaged while throttle is rolled on | Confirm the clutch lever is fully pulled …
5. 5. Starting, Stopping, and Low‑Speed Maneuvers
A Real‑World Moment: The Stop‑and‑Go Intersection You’ve just pulled into a busy downtown intersection. The light turns amber, traffic behind you begins to inch forward, and a pedestrian steps off the curb. In the next few seconds you must: 1. Launch smoothly when the light turns green. 2. Bring the bike to a controlled stop if the pedestrian hesitates. 3. Thread a tight left‑turn while keeping balance at a crawl. If any of those actions feels clumsy, you risk stalling, losing traction, or even a low‑speed collision. Mastering the fundamentals of starting, stopping, and low‑speed maneuvering turns a nervous rider into a confident one—especially in the stop‑and‑go traffic that dominates most riders’ daily lives. --- Smooth Starts from a Complete Stop Why a Smooth Start Matters A clean launch does more than look polished; it keeps the bike stable, prevents unnecessary wear on the clutch and transmission, and reduces the chance of an abrupt surge that can upset the rider’s balance or surprise nearby traffic. The Three‑Step “Start‑and‑Go” Checklist Reference: The control layout (throttle, clutch, gear‑shift lever) was introduced in Chapter 4. | Step | Action | Reason | |------|--------|--------| | 1. Gear Selection | Pull in the clutch lever fully, then shift into first gear using the gear‑shift lever. | Engages the transmission’s low‑ratio gear, giving the engine enough torque to move the bike without high revs. | | 2. Throttle Application | Roll the throttle gently forward until the engine reaches ≈ 1,500–2,000 rpm (for most street bikes). | Provides enough power to overcome static friction while keeping the engine in its smooth‑running range. | | 3. Release & Balance | Release the clutch smoothly while maintaining the throttle, simultaneously lean slightly forward (body weight over the front wheel). | The front‑wheel load helps keep the bike pointed straight, and a gradual clutch release avoids a sudden jerk. | Practice Drill – “The 5‑Second Start” 1. Find a flat, empty parking lot. 2. Sit on the bike, engage the clutch, and shift into first gear. 3. Set a timer for 5 seconds. 4. Within those 5 seconds, apply the throttle, release the clutch, and move forward a few meters. 5. Stop, repeat, focusing on making each step smoother than the last. Common Pitfalls and How to Fix Them - Stalling (engine dies) – Usually caused by releasing the clutch too quickly or using too little throttle. Solution: Increase throttle slightly and practice a slower clutch release. - High‑rev “clutch‑ripping” – Revving the engine too high before release wastes fuel and stresses the clutch. Solution: Keep throttle around 1,500–2,000 rpm; listen for the engine’s smooth idle. - Wheel‑spin – Occurs when too much throttle is applied on a low‑traction …
6. 6. Cornering Fundamentals
The Cornering Challenge Imagine you’re cruising down a suburban street on a sunny Saturday morning. A gentle “S‑curve” ahead forces you to turn left, then right, within a span of twenty metres. Your instinct is to pull the handlebars hard, lean the bike, and hope the motorcycle follows. The bike wobbles, the rear wheel slides, and you’re forced to correct abruptly—heart racing, palms white‑knuckled. What went wrong? Most new riders underestimate how body lean and bike lean interact, and they misuse throttle and brakes while trying to “force” the bike through a turn. Mastering the fundamentals of cornering—how to enter, ride through, and exit a curve smoothly—removes the guesswork and builds confidence. The sections that follow break the process into three simple, inter‑locking concepts: 1. Lean dynamics – how you and the motorcycle share the turn. 2. Throttle‑brake balance – how to use power and braking to stay stable. 3. Line, speed, and corner type – how to choose the optimal path and velocity. These ideas build directly on the controls, body positioning, and low‑speed maneuvers you learned in earlier chapters. --- Understanding Lean: Body vs. Bike Why Lean Matters When a motorcycle turns, it must tilt (lean) so that the combined forces of gravity and centripetal acceleration act through the tires’ contact patches. If the bike stays upright while turning, the tires would lose traction and the bike would slide out. Key terms Center of Gravity (CoG) – the point where the bike’s mass is balanced. Already introduced in Motorcycle Basics and Terminology. Lean Angle – the angle between the bike’s frame (and rider) and the vertical. Counter‑Steering – the brief opposite‑hand input that initiates a lean. (You’ll have practiced this in Starting, Stopping, and Low‑Speed Maneuvers.) Body Lean vs. Bike Lean A common myth is that the rider must “lean the bike” by shifting weight dramatically. In reality, the bike does most of the leaning; the rider’s role is to align the body with the bike’s lean angle and keep the combined CoG inside the tires’ grip circle. Bike‑Dominated Lean – The chassis and suspension naturally tilt as the front wheel steers. The rider’s mass, usually a smaller proportion of total weight, follows the bike’s motion. Body‑Assisted Lean – Subtle shifts of the rider’s hips and torso can fine‑tune the lean angle, especially in low‑speed or tight turns. Practical tip When you first feel the bike begin to lean, keep your torso upright and let the bike do the work. Only later, when you’re comfortable, experiment with moving your hips toward the inside of the turn to increase lean angle slightly. Visual Cue: The “Lean Triangle” Think of a triangle formed by three points: 1. Front Tire Contact …
7. 7. Braking Techniques and Emergency Stops
Front vs. Rear Brake: How They Work Together When you pull a single brake lever, the motorcycle does not stop with just that one wheel. The front and rear brakes are designed to share the load, each contributing in a predictable way. Understanding the physics helps you apply the right amount of pressure at the right moment. | Aspect | Front Brake (lever) | Rear Brake (pedal) | |--------|---------------------|--------------------| | Location of friction | Disc or drum attached to the front wheel | Disc or drum attached to the rear wheel | | Typical braking force | 70‑90 % of total stopping power (most of the bike’s weight shifts forward when you decelerate) | 10‑30 % of total stopping power | | Effect on bike stability | Increases front‑wheel traction, but too much can cause a front‑wheel lock‑up or an unwanted stoppie (front end lifts) | Provides stability and prevents rear‑wheel lock‑up; useful on loose surfaces (wet pavement, gravel) | | Typical rider input | Light‑to‑moderate lever pull, progressively increased | Light pedal press; often used simultaneously with the front lever for smooth deceleration | | When to favor | Normal straight‑line stops, high‑speed braking, dry pavement | Low‑speed stops, slippery or uneven surfaces, when you need to keep the rear wheel planted | Why the front does most of the work When you brake, inertia pushes the bike forward while the brakes try to slow it. This causes a weight transfer toward the front wheel, increasing its grip and allowing it to handle more braking force without sliding. The rear wheel, meanwhile, unloads and loses traction more quickly, which is why a gentle rear‑brake input is crucial for stability. Quick tip: If you ever feel the front wheel wobble or the bike start to tip forward, immediately release the front lever and apply a little rear brake to bring the rear wheel back under the bike’s center of gravity. --- Progressive Braking: The Smooth Stop Progressive braking is the art of gradually increasing brake pressure so that both wheels slow down together, preventing either wheel from locking up. This technique is the foundation for all safe stopping, especially on unfamiliar or changing road surfaces. Step‑by‑Step Practice (dry pavement) 1. Set up - Choose a quiet, flat parking lot. - Perform a quick pre‑ride inspection (see Chapter 3) to confirm brake fluid levels and pad condition. 2. Position - Sit upright, hands on the controls, feet on the foot pegs. - Keep eyes forward, scanning the environment as you would in normal riding. 3. Begin rolling - Accelerate to a comfortable speed (≈20 km/h). 4. Apply the front lever - Gently pull the lever 10 % of its travel. Hold …
8. 8. Riding in Traffic and Defensive Riding
The Everyday Challenge: A Morning Commute in the City You pull out of the driveway, helmet securely fastened, gloved hands on the controls you’ve practiced in the parking lot. The street ahead is a ribbon of gray asphalt threaded with cars, buses, cyclists, and a line of pedestrians waiting at a crosswalk. A delivery van pulls out of a side street just as you approach the intersection, its driver glancing briefly at your mirror. In that split‑second, how you position your motorcycle, how you signal your intentions, and how you anticipate what will happen next can mean the difference between a smooth ride and a near‑miss. The skills you need to navigate this common scenario are the focus of this chapter. We will explore proper lane positioning, effective use of hand signals and turn indicators, and defensive riding habits that keep you visible, give you space, and let you react before hazards become accidents. --- 1. Mastering Lane Position for Visibility and Space 1.1 Why Lane Position Matters When you ride a motorcycle, you are both a driver and a “moving target.” Other motorists make decisions based on what they can see. A well‑chosen lane position: - Increases your visibility to drivers in adjacent lanes and at intersections. - Provides a safety buffer—more space to maneuver if you need to brake or swerve. - Improves your own line of sight, allowing you to spot hazards earlier. 1.2 The “Visible Lane” Concept Think of each lane as a rectangle. The visible lane is the portion of that rectangle where you are clearly seen by other road users and where you have enough room to react. The ideal position is often center‑line for straight‑ahead travel, but it shifts depending on the situation: | Situation | Recommended Position | Reason | |-----------|----------------------|--------| | Straight‑ahead, moderate traffic | Center of lane | Maximizes visibility and gives equal clearance from both lane edges. | | Approaching a left turn (in right‑hand traffic) | Left side of lane, just inside the turn‑lane marking | Signals your intent to turn and gives you room to enter the turn lane safely. | | Approaching a right turn | Right side of lane, near the curb | Keeps you out of the path of vehicles turning left across your lane. | | Overtaking a slower vehicle | Left side of lane (or right side in left‑hand traffic) | Gives the overtaking vehicle space to pass on the side you’re already occupying. | | Riding beside a parked car | Maintain a minimum of 1 ft (30 cm) clearance | Prevents door‑open hazards and provides room for sudden maneuvers. | 1.3 How to Choose the Right Position 1. Scan the …
9. 9. Hazard Perception and Reaction
The Moment a Pothole Becomes a Threat You’re cruising down a city‑center avenue, the engine humming at a comfortable cruise‑control‑like speed. The traffic is light, the sun is bright, and you’re enjoying the feeling of freedom that only a motorcycle can give. Suddenly, the front wheel shudders—your eyes snap forward, and you see a dark, jagged opening in the pavement a few meters ahead. In an instant you must decide: brake, swerve, or ride over it? This split‑second decision illustrates the core of hazard perception and reaction: spotting a potential danger early enough to choose the safest response and then executing that response with confidence. In the sections that follow we will break down the process, give you concrete tools for scanning the road, teach you how to recognise the most common hazards, and show you how to react—whether that means braking, changing lanes, or any other maneuver—while keeping control of your bike. --- 1. What Is a “Hazard” on the Road? A hazard is any condition or behaviour that can cause you to lose traction, stability, or the ability to maneuver safely. For a beginner rider, the most frequent hazards fall into three categories: | Category | Typical Examples | Why It Matters | |----------|------------------|----------------| | Physical Road Defects | Potholes, uneven pavement, loose gravel, oil slicks, debris (fallen branches, shopping bags) | Directly affect tyre grip and can cause a sudden loss of control. | | Dynamic Traffic Elements | Aggressive drivers (tail‑gating, sudden lane changes), large vehicles (trucks, buses) blind spots, cyclists weaving | Require you to anticipate actions that are not under your control. | | Environmental Factors (covered later in Chapter 10) | Rain, fog, strong cross‑winds, glare | Modify the way hazards appear and how your bike reacts. | Understanding the “why” behind each hazard helps you prioritize what to look for. For now, focus on the first two categories—road defects and traffic behaviour—because they are the most common sources of surprise for new riders. --- 2. Scanning: The Eyes‑on‑Road Habit Scanning is the mental process of continuously gathering visual information, interpreting it, and updating your plan of action. Think of it as a mental radar that rotates around you, constantly asking, “What’s coming next, and how does it affect my path?” 2.1 The “3‑Second Look‑Ahead” Rule 1. Identify the farthest point you can see clearly (often the horizon or the next intersection). 2. Break that distance into three equal segments (near, mid, far). 3. Allocate your attention: Near (0‑5 m) – immediate bike control (throttle, brakes). Mid (5‑15 m) – obstacles you can react to with a brief maneuver. Far (15 m +) – upcoming hazards that require early planning (lane changes, speed …
10. 10. Riding in Varying Weather and Road Conditions
When the Forecast Changes Mid‑Ride You’re cruising down a familiar two‑lane road, the engine humming beneath you, when a sudden downpour turns the asphalt into a mirror. Within seconds, the familiar grip of your tires fades, and the world ahead looks hazy, the edges of other vehicles blurred by spray. How do you stay upright, keep control, and arrive safely at your destination? The answer lies in understanding how weather and surface conditions affect every element you’ve already learned about—traction, brake‑to‑acceleration balance, cornering geometry, and visibility—and then adjusting your riding technique accordingly. --- 1. How Weather Alters the Riding Environment | Weather Element | Primary Effect on the Bike | Rider‑Centric Impact | |-----------------|---------------------------|----------------------| | Rain / Wet pavement | Reduces tire‑road friction; creates a thin water film that can cause hydro‑hydroplaning | Longer stopping distances, delayed lean response, increased risk of wheel slip | | Snow / Ice | Near‑zero friction; uneven surface texture can hide slick spots | Very low traction, sudden loss of grip, need for smoother inputs | | Fog / Low visibility | Limits sight distance; light scattering from headlights can cause glare | Reduced reaction time to hazards, difficulty judging speed and distance | | Strong cross‑winds | Pushes the bike laterally, can destabilise the front wheel | Requires constant steering corrections, can affect braking stability | | Temperature extremes | Affects tire pressure (cold contracts, heat expands) and rider comfort | Changes handling feel, can lead to fatigue or numbness | Understanding these interactions lets you anticipate the what‑if scenarios that a changing forecast brings. --- 2. Riding on Wet or Slippery Surfaces 2.1. Adjusting Speed and Braking 1. Reduce overall speed - Aim for 30 %–50 % lower than the posted limit when the road is visibly wet. - Remember the “two‑second rule” (maintaining a two‑second gap) stretches to four seconds on slick pavement. 2. Gentle, progressive braking - Apply both front and rear brakes smoothly; avoid hard lever pulls that can lock a wheel. - As taught in Chapter 7 (Braking Techniques), modulate the front brake with the rear to keep the bike balanced. 3. Increase following distance - Wet roads increase stopping distance dramatically; give yourself extra space to react. 2.2. Cornering on Wet Roads - Enter the turn slower than you would on dry pavement. - Maintain a steady throttle throughout the apex; abrupt accelerations can cause the rear tire to lose grip. - Look further through the corner to help the bike follow a smooth line, as highlighted in Chapter 6 (Cornering Fundamentals). 2.3. Tire Considerations - Check tread depth during your Pre‑Ride Inspection Checklist (Chapter 3). - Maintain correct tire pressure; under‑inflated tires can flex more, reducing …
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