Free Woodworking learning guide

Hand Tool Woodworking Projects for Beginners

Name: Hand Tool Woodworking Projects for Beginners
Author: Tanmay Kalbande

Hand Tool Woodworking Projects for Beginners — a free beginner-level guide covering woodworking projects for beginners with hand tools. Learn with...

97 min read10 chaptersbeginner

What you will learn

Safety First: Workshop and Tool Safety
Hand Tools Overview
Understanding Wood: Types and Characteristics
Measuring, Marking, and Layout Techniques
Fundamental Cutting Methods
Basic Joinery: Butt, Lap, and Dovetail Basics
Shaping and Surface Preparation
Project Planning and Blueprint Reading
Simple Starter Projects: Birdhouse, Stool, and Shelf
Tool Care and Maintenance

1. Safety First: Workshop and Tool Safety

A Close Call in the Home Workshop Emma had just bought her first set of chisels and a hand‑saw. Excited, she set up a small workbench in the garage, laid out a piece of pine, and began marking a simple birdhouse. As she pushed the saw forward, the blade slipped, the wood cracked, and the saw’s tip snapped, sending a splinter of wood hurtling toward her eye. She froze, heart racing, and realized that a moment later the splinter would have struck her right in the cornea. A split‑second decision—dropping the saw, stepping back, and putting on safety glasses—prevented a serious injury. Emma’s story is a familiar reminder: even the most basic hand‑tool projects can become dangerous if safety is ignored. In this chapter you’ll learn how to identify common workshop hazards, choose and use the right personal protective equipment (PPE), and handle and store hand tools safely. By mastering these fundamentals, you’ll protect yourself, your tools, and your confidence as you begin woodworking. --- 1. Spotting the Hidden Dangers A workshop may look tidy, but hazards often hide in plain sight. Recognizing them early lets you take simple steps to eliminate or control the risk. 1.1 Types of Hazards | Hazard Category | Typical Sources in a Hand‑Tool Workshop | Why It Matters | |-----------------|------------------------------------------|----------------| | Physical | Sharp blades, moving parts, falling objects, uneven floors | Cuts, bruises, fractures, trips | | Fire | Sawdust accumulation, flammable finishes, open flames | Burns, smoke inhalation, loss of property | | Chemical | Solvents, wood finishes, adhesives | Skin irritation, respiratory issues | | Ergonomic | Repetitive motions, awkward postures, inadequate lighting | Muscle strain, chronic pain | | Electrical (if power tools are later introduced) | Faulty cords, exposed wiring | Shock, electrocution | Quick tip: Conduct a brief “walk‑through audit” before each work session. Look for loose tools, clutter, and any of the items above. 1.2 Common Physical Hazards and How to Mitigate Them 1. Sharp Edges and Cutting Tools Risk: Lacerations from chisels, knives, or saw blades. Mitigation: - Keep blades sharpened (a dull blade is more likely to slip). - Store blades with protective sheaths or in a dedicated drawer. - Use a cutting board or sacrificial piece of wood to support the workpiece. 2. Flying Debris Risk: Splinters, wood chips, or dust striking eyes or skin. Mitigation: - Wear safety glasses or a face shield at all times. - Position the workpiece securely to limit movement. 3. Trip and Slip Hazards Risk: Stumbling over tools, cords, or sawdust. Mitigation: - Keep the floor clean and dry; sweep or vacuum regularly. - Use a non‑slip mat under the workbench if the garage floor is slick. 4. …

2. Hand Tools Overview

A Hand‑Tool‑Only Birdhouse: What You’ll Need and Why Imagine you’ve just cleared a small corner of your garage, laid down a non‑slip mat, and set out a fresh piece of pine. You’ve got a simple plan for a birdhouse that will fit on a garden fence, and you’ve decided to build it without power tools—only the hand tools you can hold in one hand. Which tools will actually get the job done, and how do you know which one to reach for at each step? This scenario illustrates the core purpose of the hand‑tool toolbox: to turn raw wood into a finished object, safely and efficiently, using tools whose shape and design match the specific task. The following sections introduce the essential hand tools, break down their construction, and show how to select the right tool for common beginner projects such as a birdhouse, a stool, or a simple shelf. --- 1. The Essential Hand‑Tool Family Below is a concise list of the primary hand tools every beginner woodworker should own. Each tool is paired with its primary purpose—the type of material removal or manipulation it excels at. | Tool | Primary Purpose | Typical Projects | |------|-----------------|------------------| | Cross‑cut Saw (or Japanese Pull Saw) | Cutting wood across the grain (i.e., perpendicular to the wood fibers) | Panels, shelves, birdhouse sides | | Rip Saw | Cutting wood with the grain (parallel to fibers) | Long boards, table tops | | Backsaw (e.g., tenon saw) | Fine, controlled cuts for joinery (e.g., tenons, dovetails) | Joinery, precise fitting | | Coping Saw | Intricate interior cuts, curves, and coping trim | Decorative trim, cut‑outs | | Bench Chisel (including mortise and paring chisels) | Removing material, cleaning joints, shaping shoulders | Mortises, trimming, cleaning up cuts | | Bench Plane (jack, smoothing, block) | Flattening, smoothing, and shaping surfaces | Face‑planing boards, final finish | | Block Plane | Small‑scale trimming, end grain work, beveling | Edge cleanup, chamfering | | Claw Hammer | Driving nails and removing them (claw) | Assembly, framing | | Wooden Mallet | Driving wooden dowels or chisels without damaging steel tools | Dowel joints, assembling frames | | Hand Brace with Bit | Drilling precise, clean holes (often for dowels or screw pilot holes) | Pocket holes, dowel holes | | Screwdriver (flat‑head & Phillips) | Driving screws, adjusting hardware | Assembly, hardware installation | | Marking Gauge | Scribing straight lines parallel to an edge | Layout for cuts, repeated measurements | | Marking Knife | Fine, accurate layout lines that can be scored into the wood grain | Precise cut lines, joinery layout | Quick tip: Even if you own only …

3. Understanding Wood: Types and Characteristics

Softwoods vs. Hardwoods – What’s the Difference and When to Use Each When you walk into a lumberyard, the first thing you’ll notice is the split between softwoods and hardwoods. The names can be misleading – a balsa block (a hardwood) is lighter than a pine board (a softwood). The distinction is botanical, not based on actual hardness. | Feature | Softwoods | Hardwoods | |---------|-----------|-----------| | Origin | Produced by gymnosperm trees (e.g., pine, spruce, fir) that keep their cones | Produced by angiosperm trees (e.g., oak, maple, walnut) that bear fruit or nuts | | Cell Structure | Mostly tracheids – long, tube‑like cells that also conduct water | Mostly vessels – short, wide cells that allow faster water movement | | Growth Rate | Generally fast‑growing, making them abundant and inexpensive | Usually slower‑growing, resulting in higher density and cost | | Typical Uses | • Framing, roofing, and structural members <br • Outdoor projects where cost matters more than fine appearance <br • Rough‑cut shelves, simple birdhouses | • Furniture, cabinetry, decorative trim <br • Projects where grain pattern and stability are important <br • Small‑scale hand‑tool work that benefits from a fine finish | Scenario: Emma, a beginner woodworker, wants to build a simple garden bench. She chooses Douglas fir for the seat and legs because it’s strong, readily available, and cheap. For the decorative armrest, she selects a small piece of hard maple to showcase a clean, tight grain that will take a smooth finish. Quick Decision Guide 1. Budget‑first project? → Softwood. 2. Fine appearance or durability needed? → Hardwood. 3. Project will be outdoors and exposed to moisture? → Look for treated softwoods (e.g., pressure‑treated pine) or naturally durable hardwoods (e.g., cedar, teak). Remember the safety reminders from Safety First: wear safety glasses when sawing, keep the work area clean, and maintain a neutral posture while handling heavy timber. --- Reading the Grain – Direction, Patterns, and Why It Matters The grain is the direction in which wood fibers run. It dictates how the wood will behave when you cut, plane, or glue it. Grain Direction - Along the grain – Cutting parallel to the fibers. Produces clean, smooth surfaces and resists splitting. - Across the grain – Cutting perpendicular to the fibers. Can cause tear‑out and ragged edges. When you hold a board, the grain usually runs from one edge to the other. The face (the wide surface) shows the grain pattern clearly; the edge reveals the grain’s direction. How to Identify Grain Direction 1. Visual inspection – Look for the long, linear lines on the face. 2. Touch test – Run your fingertips along the surface; the fibers feel smoother …

4. Measuring, Marking, and Layout Techniques

A Real‑World Moment: The First Cut Imagine you are about to cut the first piece for a simple three‑leg stool. The plan calls for a 12 in. × 2 in. leg, but the board on your bench is 12 in. + 1⁄8 in. long. You reach for the saw, make a confident stroke, and the blade bites into the wood a fraction too far. The leg is now too short, the joint will be loose, and you’ll have to start over—wasting time, material, and enthusiasm. What went wrong? In most cases, the error started before the saw even touched the wood. A small inaccuracy in measuring, marking, or laying out the cut line can cascade into a botched piece. This chapter gives you the tools and habits to keep every line you draw true to the plan, turning that first cut from a gamble into a reliable step. --- 1. The Core Measuring Tools 1.1 Tape Measure – Your Portable Ruler A tape measure is the most versatile measuring tool in a hand‑tool workshop. Even though it looks simple, mastering its use eliminates the most common source of error. | Feature | What to Look For | How to Use It | |---------|------------------|---------------| | Blade length | 12 ft (most common) or 25 ft for larger projects. | Keep the blade snug against the edge you are measuring; avoid “sag” by holding the tape with one hand and anchoring the end with the other. | | Locking mechanism | Click‑lock or spring‑lock. | Engage the lock as soon as the required length is reached; this prevents the blade from retracting while you read the measurement. | | Clear markings | Dual‑scale (imperial + metric) and large numbers. | Align the 0 mark with the reference edge; read the number that lines up with the blade tip (not the metal tip, which adds ~1⁄16 in.). | | Hook (end piece) | Slightly bendable metal. | The hook is designed to compensate for its own thickness when measuring from the inside of a board. Let it sit flush against the edge; the measurement you read already includes the hook’s offset. | Tips for Accurate Tape Use 1. Zero the tape at the edge – always start counting from the inside of the hook, not the outer edge. 2. Avoid “parallax” – keep your eye directly above the measurement line; looking from an angle can make the number appear larger or smaller. 3. Prevent sag – for lengths over 6 ft, support the tape mid‑way with a second hand or a short piece of wood. 4. Use the “blade lock” – a loose blade can slip a fraction of an inch while you’re …

5. Fundamental Cutting Methods

A Real‑World Problem: Cutting a Shelf for a Starter Project Imagine you have just purchased a 1‑×‑12 board of pine to build a simple wall shelf for your living room. The plan calls for a 12‑inch wide, 24‑inch long panel that must be cut perfectly square so the shelf sits flush against the wall. You reach for the only saw in the shop—a small backsaw—yet you’re not sure how to get a clean, straight cut without a power saw. This scenario illustrates three core cutting skills you’ll master in this chapter: 1. Straight cuts with a backsaw (and, when needed, a coping saw). 2. Accurate crosscuts and rip cuts using a miter box. 3. Basic mortise cuts made with a chisel and mallet. By the end of the chapter you’ll be able to turn a raw board into a ready‑to‑assemble component, all with hand tools you can easily keep in a small workshop or even a garage. --- 1. Preparing the Work Area – A Quick Safety Recap Before any cutting begins, revisit the safety fundamentals covered in Safety First and Hand Tools Overview. A well‑organized workspace reduces the chance of accidents and improves accuracy. Clear the bench of clutter; keep only the workpiece, the saw(s), a hammer or mallet, a chisel, and a miter box within arm’s reach. Secure the material on a stable surface—ideally a wooden cutting board or a piece of scrap plywood that won’t damage your bench. Wear safety glasses (already emphasized) to protect your eyes from flying wood fibers. Maintain neutral posture: stand with feet shoulder‑width apart, keep the workpiece at waist height, and let the tool do the work rather than forcing it. A tidy, well‑lit bench also helps you see the fine lines you’ll mark with a pencil or marking knife, a skill you learned in Measuring, Marking, and Layout Techniques. --- 2. Choosing the Right Saw for the Job Hand saws come in many shapes, each optimized for a particular cut. Understanding the anatomy of each saw will let you select the most efficient tool. | Saw | Typical Blade Length | Tooth Geometry | Best Use | |-----|----------------------|----------------|----------| | Backsaw | 10–12 in (25–30 cm) | Fine, often 12–16 TPI (teeth per inch) | Precise straight cuts, especially for joinery | | Coping Saw | 12–14 in (30–35 cm) | Fine, 15–20 TPI, thin blade | Intricate curved cuts; can also make short straight cuts in tight spots | | Miter Box Saw (usually a small backsaw that fits the box) | 12 in | Medium‑fine, 8–12 TPI | Crosscuts and rip cuts at set angles (usually 45° and 90°) | 2.1 Backsaw Anatomy Back – a stiff steel reinforcement along …

6. Basic Joinery: Butt, Lap, and Dovetail Basics

A Simple Project to Motivate You Imagine you are building a tiny garden bench for two children. The structure will be only a foot high, but it must hold their weight safely. With just a few hand tools you can assemble the frame using three classic joints—butt, half‑lap, and through‑dovetail—each chosen for the forces it will meet. By the end of this chapter you will have the confidence to create those same joints in any starter project, from a birdhouse to a simple stool. --- 1. The Butt Joint – The Workhorse of Woodworking 1.1 What Is a Butt Joint? A butt joint is the most straightforward way to join two pieces: the end of one board meets the face or edge of another, forming a 90° (or any angle you choose) corner. By itself it isn’t very strong, but glue plus mechanical reinforcement—nails, screws, or dowels—turn it into a reliable connection for light‑to‑moderate loads. 1.2 When to Use It - End‑to‑side connections in frames, shelves, and simple furniture. - Situations where the joint will be hidden or reinforced later (e.g., a back panel). 1.3 Layout and Marking 1. Measure the length of each member with a tape or ruler (see Measuring, Marking, and Layout Techniques). 2. Mark the exact meeting point on the face of each board using a sharp pencil and a marking gauge for a clean line. 3. Double‑check that the joint will be square with a combination square; a mis‑aligned butt joint looks sloppy and reduces strength. 1.4 Cutting the Faces - Use a hand‑saw (crosscut or backsaw) to trim the ends square. - If the joint is to be flush‑butted, cut a shallow rabbet (a small step) on the receiving piece: - Set the depth of the marking gauge to the desired rabbet depth (usually 1/8‑1/4 in). - Score the line around the perimeter, then saw along the line, removing the waste with a chisel. 1.5 Gluing and Reinforcing | Reinforcement | How to Apply | |---------------|--------------| | Nails | Pre‑drill pilot holes (⅜ in. deep) to avoid splitting, then drive a nail through the end of the first board into the second. | | Screws | Use a countersink bit to create a flat seat for the screw head, then drive the screw. | | Dowels | Drill matching ⅜ in. holes in both pieces, apply glue, and insert wooden dowels. | Glue tip: Apply a thin, even coat of wood glue on both surfaces. Spread it with a brush or a small piece of scrap wood. Press the joint together and clamp it for 30–45 minutes (refer to Safety First for safe clamping practices). 1.6 Step‑by‑Step Example – Simple Shelf Bracket 1. Cut …

7. Shaping and Surface Preparation

A Rough‑Sawn Board Becomes a Showcase Piece Imagine you have just ripped a 1‑by‑4 board from a piece of pine that was rough‑sawn in the sawmill. Its faces are uneven, its edges are wavy, and the thickness varies by a few millimetres. You want that board to become the elegant side panel of a birdhouse you’ll finish next week. The transformation from “rough” to “refined” hinges on three simple, hand‑tool steps: planing, sanding, and finishing. Master these, and any beginner can give a piece of wood a professional appearance without a power sander or spray booth. --- 1. Getting the Board Ready for Planing Before the plane touches the wood, a few quick checks save time and protect both you and the tool. | Checklist | Why It Matters | |-----------|----------------| | Inspect for warp or twist – lay the board on a flat surface and look for gaps. | A warped board will feed unevenly, producing a lopsided surface. | | Remove loose bark, knots, or splinters with a sharp chisel or a hand scraper (see Hand Tools Overview). | Prevents the plane blade from catching and dulling. | | Clear dust and debris using a soft brush or a vacuum (refer to Safety First on dust control). | Reduces friction and keeps the plane’s sole clean. | | Secure the board on a sturdy workbench with clamps or a bench vise. | Guarantees safety and steadiness while you apply force. | If the board is significantly twisted, a quick joint‑planing pass (planing along the length while rotating the board) can bring it back into shape before you move on to thickness work. --- 2. Hand Planing – Flattening and Controlling Thickness 2.1. Anatomy of a Bench Plane (quick refresher) - Blade (or iron) – the cutting edge; must be sharp (see Sharp Edges and Cutting Tools). - Sole – the flat bottom that rides over the wood. - Mouth – the opening through which the blade protrudes; a closed mouth gives finer shavings, an open mouth handles tougher grain. - Adjustment lever – raises or lowers the blade for depth control. 2.2. Choosing the Right Plane | Plane Type | Typical Use | Recommended for Beginners | |------------|-------------|----------------------------| | Jack plane (≈14 in) | General purpose, removing material quickly | Good for the first flattening pass | | Smoothing plane (≈9 in) | Final surface preparation, fine shavings | Ideal for the last pass before sanding | | Bench (or fore) plane (≈12 in) | Slightly larger than a jack; good for thickness | Useful for setting a uniform thickness | 2.3. Setting Up the Plane 1. Check blade sharpness – a dull blade tears wood and leaves …

8. Project Planning and Blueprint Reading

From Paper to Saw: Turning a Sketch into a Real‑World Project Imagine you have just bought a modestly priced set of pine boards and a printed sheet titled “4‑Leg Stool – 12‑in‑High”. The drawing shows a front elevation, a side elevation, and a simple exploded view with a few dimensions. The excitement of seeing a finished piece in your mind is immediate, but the next step—making the wood match the paper—can feel like deciphering a foreign language. The ability to read a basic woodworking sketch, pull out the exact dimensions you need, and then organize those numbers into a clear material and cut‑list is the bridge between imagination and a successful build. This chapter walks you through that bridge, step by step, so you can approach any beginner‑level plan with confidence and avoid costly mistakes. --- 1. Decoding a Basic Sketch 1.1 What a Simple Sketch Contains A beginner‑level plan typically includes: | Element | What It Shows | Why It Matters | |---------|---------------|----------------| | Title Block | Project name, scale, designer, material suggestions | Quick reference for the whole sheet | | Views (Front, Side, Top) | Orthogonal projections of the piece | Shows shape and size from different angles | | Exploded View | Parts separated to illustrate assembly order | Helps you see how the pieces fit together | | Dimensions | Numeric lengths, widths, thicknesses, sometimes angles | The exact measurements you must cut | | Symbols / Notations | Arrow heads, “×”, “Ø”, “R” for radii, “∑” for sum, etc. | Communicates special instructions (e.g., “drill ½‑in. hole”) | | Cutting List (optional) | Pre‑made list of parts with quantities | Saves you the work of creating one yourself | If any of these sections are missing, you’ll need to infer or ask the designer for clarification before cutting any wood. 1.2 Understanding Scale Most beginner plans are drawn at full scale (1:1), meaning the numbers you see are the actual sizes you will cut. Occasionally a plan will be printed at a reduced scale (e.g., ½” = 1‑ft). Look for a scale indicator in the title block. How to check scale quickly: 1. Locate a known dimension (e.g., “12‑in. overall height”). 2. Measure that length on the drawing with a ruler. 3. Compare the measured length to the indicated size. If they match, the drawing is at full scale. If the drawing is not at full scale, convert every dimension accordingly before proceeding. 1.3 Common Sketch Symbols | Symbol | Meaning | Example in a Stool Plan | |--------|---------|--------------------------| | ⌀ | Diameter of a hole | ⌀1‑in. for a dowel | | R | Radius of a curve (often a corner) | R¼‑in. …

9. Simple Starter Projects: Birdhouse, Stool, and Shelf

A Weekend of Hands‑On Learning Imagine you’ve just cleared a corner of your garage, laid out a non‑slip mat, and feel the quiet confidence that comes from a well‑organized workspace. The birds outside are already eyeing a spot for a nest, your friends have asked for a sturdy place to sit, and the empty wall in the living room begs for a little extra storage. In the next two days you’ll turn those simple wishes into three finished pieces—each built with only hand tools, each reinforcing a different fundamental joint you’ve already studied, and each delivering a tangible, useful object you can be proud of. --- Project 1 – The Classic Birdhouse (Butt and Lap Joints) A birdhouse is the perfect beginner’s project because it requires only a few cuts, a couple of basic joints, and offers immediate visual feedback. The design below uses a butt joint for the side walls and a lap joint where the roof meets the back wall, giving the structure a clean, weather‑resistant seam. Materials & Hand Tools | Item | Recommended Specification | |------|----------------------------| | Wood | ½‑inch (12 mm) cedar or pine board, 6 × 8 ft sheet | | Fasteners | ¼‑inch (6 mm) galvanized nails or wood glue (for a fully hand‑tool build, use glue only) | | Finishing | Exterior‑grade oil or clear wax | | Tools | – Sharp handsaw (crosscut or dovetail saw)<br– Back saw for interior cuts<br– Chisel set (½‑inch and ¼‑inch)<br– Mallet<br– Drill with ¼‑inch spade bit (entrance hole)<br– Marking gauge, combination square, pencil<br– Sanding block or fine‑grain sandpaper | Safety reminder: Keep the workspace clean of sawdust and wear safety glasses, as emphasized in Safety First. 1. Layout & Marking 1. Determine dimensions. A common size is 6 in. × 6 in. × 8 in. (width × depth × height). 2. Using the measuring, marking, and layout techniques from Chapter 4, draw a full‑scale plan on a sheet of paper. Transfer the key dimensions onto the cedar board with a pencil and a combination square to keep lines true. 3. Mark the bird entry hole 2 in. from the top on the front wall; a ¼‑inch spade bit will create a clean opening. 2. Cutting the Pieces 1. Side walls (2 pieces): Cut two 6 in. × 8 in. rectangles. 2. Front & back panels (2 pieces): Cut two 6 in. × 6 in. rectangles. 3. Roof (1 piece): Cut a 7 in. × 6 in. rectangle; the extra inch allows the roof to overhang and form the lap joint. All cuts are made with a hand saw; keep the saw blade perpendicular to the board for a square edge. Use the back saw for …

10. Tool Care and Maintenance

A Real‑World Wake‑Up Call When Maya finished her first birdhouse, she was proud—until the next day when the small saw she’d used to cut the front panel snapped clean through the middle of a down‑stroke. A quick inspection revealed a thin, rust‑streaked blade that had been “sharpened” with a kitchen knife just weeks earlier. The birdhouse fell apart, the project was delayed, and Maya learned a hard lesson: neglecting tool care can ruin a project and become a safety hazard. From that moment on she made cleaning, sharpening, and regular inspection part of every woodworking session. By the end of the week her tools were humming again, the cuts were clean, and she felt confident that the next project would stand the test of time. The same turnaround is possible for any beginner. This chapter gives you the step‑by‑step habits that keep hand tools—saws, chisels, planes, and their companions—sharp, rust‑free, and ready for safe use. --- 1. The Why Behind Tool Care 1.1 Safety First, Again The Safety First: Workshop and Tool Safety chapter taught you to wear safety glasses, keep the workspace clean, and respect cutting edges. A dull or corroded tool defeats those precautions: it requires more force, increases the chance of slipping, and can cause the tool to bind or break. Regular maintenance is therefore an extension of safe practice. 1.2 Longevity and Cost Quality hand tools are an investment. Proper care can extend their life many years, often decades, saving you from premature replacement. A well‑maintained plane, for example, can stay functional long after the original manufacturer ceases production. 1.3 Quality of Work Sharp, clean tools produce smoother cuts, tighter joints, and finer surface finishes—key outcomes from the Fundamental Cutting Methods and Shaping and Surface Preparation chapters. When your tools are in top condition, the wood responds predictably, letting you focus on design rather than fighting the tool. --- 2. Cleaning Every Time You Finish 2.1 Immediate vs. Delayed Cleaning Wood dust, resin, and metal shavings cling to metal surfaces. If left to dry, they become a substrate for rust. Clean and oil tools after use to prevent rust—the sooner, the better. 2 Step Routine 1. Remove debris Use a soft brush (old toothbrush works) or a dry cloth to sweep away sawdust, wood chips, and metal filings. For saw blades, run the blade against the tooth direction to dislodge particles without damaging the tooth geometry. 2. Wipe with a solvent‑free cloth A lint‑free rag dampened with mineral oil (or a dedicated tool‑cleaning oil) removes remaining fine particles. Avoid household cleaners that contain acids or solvents; they can strip protective finishes. 3. Dry thoroughly Pat the metal dry with a separate clean cloth. Moisture is the …