Free Crochet learning guide
Easy Crochet Patterns for Absolute Beginners
Easy Crochet Patterns for Absolute Beginners — a free beginner-level guide covering easy crochet patterns for absolute beginners. Learn with clear...
What you will learn
- Introduction to Crochet Tools and Materials
- Holding the Hook and Yarn
- The Foundation Chain
- The Single Crochet Stitch
- Turning Chains and Working in Rows
- The Double Crochet Stitch
- Basic Increasing and Decreasing
- Working in the Round and the Magic Ring
- Changing Colors and Weaving in Ends
- Reading Crochet Patterns and Charts
- Beginner Project: The Simple Washcloth
- Beginner Project: The Classic Granny Square
1. Introduction to Crochet Tools and Materials
Picture this: You walk into a craft store, excited to buy your first crochet supplies. Instead of a quick trip, you are met with an entire aisle overflowing with brightly colored skeins of yarn and a massive wall of mysterious metal sticks. You pick up a hook, but it has letters, millimeters, and numbers printed on the side. You grab a ball of yarn, but the wrapper looks like a secret code. If this scenario sounds overwhelming, you are not alone. Every crochoter starts right here, staring at that wall. The good news is that you only need a few specific items to start crocheting, and once you understand what the labels mean, shopping for supplies becomes a breeze. The Crochet Hook: Your Primary Tool The crochet hook is the instrument you will use to pull loops of yarn through other loops to create fabric. While they all serve the same basic function, hooks come in different materials and sizes, each suited to different types of projects and personal preferences. Parts of a Hook Before diving into the types of hooks, it helps to know the basic anatomy of the tool in your hand: The Point (or Head): The very tip of the hook, used to slide under existing loops of yarn. The Throat: The slotted area below the head that grabs and holds the yarn as you pull it through. The Shaft: The straight, cylindrical section below the throat. The thickness of this shaft determines the size of your stitches. The Grip (or Handle): The thicker area at the bottom of the hook where your hand rests. Types of Hook Materials Hooks are manufactured in several different materials, which affect how the hook feels in your hand and how the yarn glides across it. Aluminum: These are the most common and widely available hooks. They are lightweight, highly durable, and very smooth, allowing the yarn to glide effortlessly. For beginners, aluminum is an excellent, affordable choice. Plastic: Plastic hooks are very lightweight and inexpensive. They are often used for very large hook sizes because they won't weigh down your hand. However, they can sometimes feel slightly "grabby" or bend under pressure. Ergonomic: An ergonomic hook is usually made of aluminum at the shaft, but features a thick, cushioned handle (often made of rubber or silicone). These are designed to reduce hand fatigue and are highly recommended for beginners, as they encourage a relaxed grip. Wood/Bamboo: These hooks are warm to the touch and have a slight grip on the yarn, which can be helpful if your yarn keeps slipping. However, they can sometimes snag finer yarns if they aren't perfectly polished. Understanding Hook Sizes Crochet hook sizes refer to …
2. Holding the Hook and Yarn
Imagine trying to write a carefully worded letter while gripping the pen in a tight fist, or holding it so loosely that it slips out of your fingers with every stroke. The resulting handwriting would be jagged, inconsistent, and exhausting to produce. Crochet operates on the exact same principle. Before you can create a single stitch, you need to learn how to comfortably and securely hold your two main tools: the hook and the yarn. Your hands act as the bridge between your materials and your finished project. The way you hold your tools dictates how easily the yarn flows, how uniform your stitches will be, and how long you can crochet before your hands cramp. Why Your Grip Matters In the first module, we explored the anatomy of the crochet hook, from the point and throat down to the shaft and grip. We also looked at different materials, like smooth aluminum and warm wood/bamboo. Now, it is time to put that tool into your hand. When you crochet, your dominant hand (the one you write with) controls the hook, while your non-dominant hand controls the yarn and the growing project. This division of labor is essential. If your dominant hand has to do all the work—both maneuvering the hook and pulling the yarn tight—your movements will be jerky and inefficient. By assigning specific roles to each hand, you create a smooth, rhythmic workflow. There is no single "correct" way to hold a crochet hook or the yarn. Instead, there are established techniques that work well for most people. The goal is to find a grip that feels natural, allows for fluid motion, and helps you maintain consistent tension. Holding the Crochet Hook There are two primary methods for holding a crochet hook: the knife hold and the pencil hold. Both are widely used by beginners and experts alike. You should try both to see which one feels more comfortable in your hand. The Knife Hold The knife hold gets its name because it mimics the way you hold a butter knife when you are spreading something on a piece of toast. Many beginners find this hold incredibly intuitive and stable. To practice the knife hold: 1. Lay the grip (or handle) of your crochet hook across the palm of your dominant hand, resting it in the fleshy area just below your thumb. 2. Wrap your index finger over the top of the grip. 3. Place your thumb on the flat part of the grip (if your hook has an ergonomic thumb rest) or on the side of the handle, directly opposite your index finger. 4. Curl your remaining three fingers (middle, ring, and pinky) loosely around the lower part …
3. The Foundation Chain
Imagine sitting down with a beautiful, squishy skein of worsted weight yarn and your favorite ergonomic hook. You want to make a simple scarf, a coaster, or a washcloth. But before you can create the textured fabric of your project, you need a starting line. Every crochet project, from the simplest beginner washcloth to an intricate lace shawl, begins with a single loop of yarn on a hook. This loop becomes the anchor for your entire project. In crochet, this starting line is called the foundation chain. Think of it as the cast-on in knitting or the foundation of a house. Without a solid, straight foundation, your stitches won't line up, and your final project will lose its shape. Before you can create that long chain, you need to get the yarn securely onto your hook. That requires a specific type of knot. The Starting Point: Tying a Slip Knot A slip knot is the very first loop you put on your crochet hook. Unlike a dead knot, which permanently locks the yarn in place, a slip knot is designed to be adjustable. It tightens securely when you pull on the working yarn, but it easily slides loose if you pull on the tail. This adjustability is crucial because it allows you to control the size of the loop on your hook as you work. To begin, you need to identify the two ends of your yarn. The working yarn is the strand that leads directly to your skein or ball of yarn. The tail end is the loose cut end. Here is how to tie a slip knot step-by-step: 1. Form a loop: Lay the yarn flat on a table or hold your left hand flat (if you are right-handed). Drape the yarn over your index and middle fingers, leaving a tail of about 4 to 6 inches. Cross the working yarn over the top of the tail end, creating an "X". This forms a circle or loop near your fingertips. 2. Pull a new loop through: Reach through the circle you just made from the back to the front. Grab the working yarn (the part leading to the skein) and pull it through the circle. You now have a new, smaller loop in your hand. 3. Place it on the hook: Slide this new loop onto the shaft of your crochet hook, just below the throat. 4. Tighten: Hold the tail end in one hand and the working yarn in the other. Gently pull both ends simultaneously. The knot at the base of the loop will slide and tighten around the shaft of the hook. 5. Adjust the size: Pull gently on the working yarn to tighten the …
4. The Single Crochet Stitch
You have your hook, your yarn, and a foundation chain draped across your lap. Up until now, crochet has felt a bit like tying a series of knots to make a skinny rope. But what happens next is where the true magic of crochet begins. You are about to transform that single, flat line of chains into a piece of actual, wearable, usable fabric. The single crochet stitch (often abbreviated as sc in patterns) is the shortest and most compact of all crochet stitches. It creates a dense, sturdy, and slightly stiff fabric that is perfect for projects that need to hold their shape. Imagine you are making a thick, protective sleeve for a heavy cast-iron skillet, a sturdy market bag, or a soft but tightly woven washcloth. You need a fabric that won't stretch out of shape or leave large gaps. The single crochet stitch is the architectural foundation for all of these items. By mastering this one stitch, you unlock the ability to make hundreds of beginner-friendly projects. Before you can make the stitch, however, you need to understand exactly where to put your hook. Anatomy of a Foundation Chain In the previous module, you created your foundation chain. To work into this chain, you need to look at it from a new perspective. Pick up your chain and hold it flat in front of you, parallel to the floor. Do not stretch it tight; let it rest naturally. Look closely at the top of the chain. You will notice a series of interlocking shapes that look like little tear drops or the letter "V" lying on its side. Understanding the parts of this V-shape is crucial, as it dictates exactly where your hook needs to go. The V-shape: This is the top edge of your foundation chain. Every chain stitch you make will have this V-shape at the top. The Front Loop: When holding the chain flat, the loop of the V that is closest to you is the front loop. The Back Loop: The loop of the V that is furthest away from you, resting slightly behind the front loop, is the back loop. The Back Bump: If you flip your chain over and look at the back of it, you will see a third, smaller strand of yarn running behind the V-shape. This is the back bump (or back ridge). For the vast majority of beginner patterns, you will insert your hook underneath both the front loop and the back loop of the V-shape. This creates the most stable and even edge for your fabric. A Note on Counting When you look at your chain, the loop currently resting on your hook does not count …
5. Turning Chains and Working in Rows
You’ve just finished your first row of single crochet stitches. You started with a foundation chain, inserted your hook into each chain, and looped your yarn through until you reached the end. Now you have a straight line of yarn sitting on your hook. But a washcloth, a scarf, or a blanket cannot be built from a single strand of yarn. How do you add width? You could cut the yarn, tie it off, and start a brand-new foundation chain from scratch. But doing that for every row would leave you with dozens of tangled knots to weave in later. Instead, crochet offers a brilliantly simple solution: you just turn around and work back the way you came. To do this successfully, you need to master three crucial skills: turning your work without twisting it, creating a turning chain to start the new row, and counting your stitches so your edges stay perfectly straight. Reaching the End of the Row Before you can turn around, you need to know what the end of a row looks like. If you followed the instructions in the previous chapter, you worked a single crochet stitch into every chain across your foundation chain. When you reach the very last stitch, you will complete your final yarn over and pull through, leaving a single loop on your hook. There should be no more unworked chains left to your left (if you are right-handed) or to your right (if you are left-handed). Congratulations—you have officially completed Row 1. The Mechanics of Turning Your Work To begin Row 2, you need to physically rotate your crochet piece so you can work back across the stitches you just made. This is called turning your work. The goal is to flip the piece like turning the page of a book, keeping the flat side down and the active loop securely on your hook. How to turn your work without twisting the fabric: 1. Keep the loop on your hook and hold your hook in your normal grip. 2. Imagine the row of stitches is a line drawn down the center of a book. 3. Flip the entire piece over, left to right (if you are right-handed) or right to left (if you are left-handed). 4. Your working yarn (the strand attached to the skein) should now be draped over the back of your work, coming out from under your hook. If you turn your work correctly, the back side of the stitches from Row 1 will now be facing you. This back side is called the "wrong side" of the fabric, while the side that was facing you during Row 1 is the "right side." As you alternate rows, …
6. The Double Crochet Stitch
Why Taller Stitches Matter Imagine you've been asked to make a baby blanket. You pull out your yarn, chain 100, and start working in single crochet. Row by row, the fabric grows — but slowly. Very slowly. After an hour, you've completed maybe six rows, and the blanket looks like a scarf. At this rate, the baby will be in kindergarten before it's finished. This is the problem taller stitches solve. The single crochet you learned in Module 4 is sturdy, compact, and excellent for projects that need density — think face scrubbies, dishcloths, or amigurumi. But when you want to cover more ground, create fabric with more drape and softness, or produce a lacy, open texture, you need stitches that are taller. Each taller stitch adds height to the loop on your hook before you pull through, and that extra height translates directly into fabric that grows faster and feels more flexible. In this module, you'll learn two new stitches that build directly on the mechanics you already know. The half double crochet sits between single crochet and double crochet in height — it's just tall enough to open up your fabric while remaining substantial. The double crochet is roughly twice the height of a single crochet and is one of the most widely used stitches in all of crochet. Together, these two stitches unlock an enormous range of patterns, from simple scarves to the classic granny square you'll encounter later in this book. Both stitches rely on one fundamental technique you haven't used yet: the yarn over. Before we tackle the stitches themselves, let's break down this essential motion. --- The Yarn Over: The Building Block of Taller Stitches Every crochet stitch you've learned so far — the foundation chain and the single crochet — involved inserting your hook into a stitch, catching the yarn, and pulling it through. You never had more than two loops on your hook at one time, and you always pulled through in a single motion. Taller stitches change this. Before you insert your hook into the fabric at all, you wrap the yarn around the hook once (or more, for even taller stitches). This wrap is called a yarn over, abbreviated as yo in written patterns. The yarn over adds a loop to your hook, and that extra loop is what gives the finished stitch its additional height. Think of it as pre-loading the stitch with yarn so that when you eventually pull through, the resulting vertical column is taller. How to Execute a Yarn Over The yarn over is simple, but the direction matters. Here's how to do it correctly: 1. Start with your hook in your working position, with one …
7. Basic Increasing and Decreasing
Why Your Crochet Isn't Just a Rectangle Up until now, every project you have worked on has likely been a square or a rectangle. By following the steps in Turning Chains and Working in Rows, you’ve learned how to maintain a consistent width. But what happens if you want to make a triangle? Or a heart? Or a piece of clothing that fits the curve of a shoulder? To move beyond the rectangle, you have to break the "one stitch per hole" rule. This is where shaping comes in. Shaping is the process of intentionally adding or removing stitches to change the width of your fabric as you work. If you add stitches, the fabric grows wider. If you remove them, it narrows. By strategically placing these changes, you can turn a flat piece of yarn into a 3D shape. The Single Crochet Increase (inc) An increase is the simplest way to widen your work. In the most basic terms, an increase means putting two stitches into the same space where you would normally only put one. In your previous lessons on The Single Crochet Stitch, you learned to insert your hook into a stitch, yarn over, and pull through. For an increase, you simply do that twice in the exact same spot. How to Perform a Single Crochet Increase Follow these steps to create a single crochet increase: 1. Insert the hook into the designated stitch. 2. Complete one single crochet exactly as you normally would (yarn over, pull through the stitch, yarn over, pull through both loops). 3. Insert the hook into the same stitch again. Do not move to the next hole; go back into the same gap you just used. 4. Complete a second single crochet in that same gap. You have now turned one stitch from the previous row into two stitches for the current row. The Visual Effect of Increasing When you increase, you are adding "volume" to the edge of your work. Increases at both ends: If you increase at the beginning and end of every row, your work will flare out into a triangle or a trapezoid. Increases in the middle: If you increase in the center of a row, the fabric will create a bubble or a curve. Pro Tip: Because you are putting two stitches into one hole, the fabric can sometimes feel a bit tighter in that spot. Ensure you aren't pulling your yarn too tight, or the "hole" will become difficult to find during the next row. The Single Crochet Decrease (sc2tog) If increasing is about adding volume, decreasing is about removing it. A decrease takes two stitches from the previous row and combines them into one single …
8. Working in the Round and the Magic Ring
Why Go in Circles? Up until now, every project you have worked on has been a flat rectangle or a strip. You started with a foundation chain, worked across a row, turned your work, and worked back the other way. This "back-and-forth" method is perfect for scarves or washcloths, but it cannot create a sphere, a hat, or a coaster. To create these shapes, you need to learn how to Work in the Round. Working in the round simply means that instead of turning your work at the end of a row, you continue stitching in a circle. However, there is a common problem when starting a circle: if you start with a traditional foundation chain and join the ends, you are often left with a hole in the middle. This is where the Magic Ring (also known as the Magic Circle or Adjustable Loop) comes in. It is a clever trick that allows you to start a circle with no hole at all, as the center can be pulled completely shut. Mastering the Magic Ring The Magic Ring is often the most intimidating technique for absolute beginners because it requires a bit of "yarn gymnastics." If it doesn't work the first time, don't worry—it is a mechanical skill that requires muscle memory. Step-by-Step: Creating the Ring To create a Magic Ring, you aren't making a stitch yet; you are creating a loop of yarn that acts as your foundation. 1. The Initial Cross: Hold your hand out in front of you. Take the yarn and wrap it around your index finger, crossing the yarn over itself to create an "X" on top of your finger. 2. The Hook Entry: Insert your crochet hook under the first strand of yarn you wrapped and over the second strand. 3. The First Loop: Use your hook to grab the second strand and pull it under the first. You have now created a small loop on your hook. 4. The Locking Stitch: To secure this loop so it doesn't unravel, perform a Single Crochet (as learned in Chapter 4) into the center of that loop. You now have a circle of yarn with a "tail" hanging off to the side and a working loop on your hook. This circle is your "foundation," and you will now work your stitches directly into the center of this ring. Troubleshooting the Ring If your ring feels too tight or "bunches up," remember that the ring is designed to be flexible. The most common mistake is pulling the yarn too tight before you have finished the first round. Keep your tension relaxed; you will tighten everything at the very end. Working Single Crochets into the Ring Now …
9. Changing Colors and Weaving in Ends
The "Uh-Oh" Moment: Running Out of Yarn You are halfway through a beautiful project—perhaps a scarf or a blanket—and you realize the yarn in your hand is getting dangerously short. You look at the remaining length and realize you won't make it to the end of the row. Or, perhaps you've decided that your project would look much better with a bright stripe of yellow cutting through the blue. For a beginner, this is often the most intimidating part of a project. There is a common fear that adding a new piece of yarn will create a bulky knot or a visible gap that ruins the fabric. However, changing colors is not a "hack" or a workaround; it is a fundamental skill. Once you master the timing of the swap and the art of hiding your ends, you can create multi-colored masterpieces and work on projects of any size, regardless of how many skeins of yarn they require. Joining a New Ball of Yarn at the End of a Row The easiest time to change colors or start a new ball of yarn is at the end of a row. Because you are already performing a turning chain (as learned in Turning Chains and Working in Rows), you have a natural breaking point to switch your yarn. The golden rule of color changes is this: Complete the final stitch of the row with the old color, but do not finish the final pull-through. Step-by-Step: The End-of-Row Switch Whether you are using Single Crochet or Double Crochet, the process is the same: 1. Work the stitch almost to completion. For example, if you are doing a Single Crochet, insert your hook, yarn over, and pull up a loop. You now have two loops on your hook. 2. Stop. Do not pull the yarn through those two loops. 3. Drop the old color. Let the old yarn hang loose. 4. Introduce the new color. Place the new yarn over your hook. 5. Complete the stitch. Pull the new color through the remaining loops on your hook. By switching colors on the final pull-through, the "join" is hidden by the height of the stitch and the subsequent turning chain. The new color now becomes your working yarn for the next row. Scenario: The "Seamless" Scarf Imagine you are crocheting a long scarf in navy blue, but you've run out of yarn. If you were to tie a knot and keep going, you would feel a hard lump in the fabric. By using the method above, you transition from the old ball to the new ball during the final stitch of the row. When you work your turning chain and start the next row, …
10. Reading Crochet Patterns and Charts
The Secret Language of Crochet Imagine you’ve found the perfect pattern for a cozy scarf or a cute plushie. You open the instructions, eager to start, but instead of a sentence like "Make a few loops and then sew them together," you see something like this: Row 1: Ch 12, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. (11) At first glance, this looks less like a craft project and more like a coded message from a spy agency. But here is the secret: crochet patterns aren't written in a foreign language; they are written in shorthand. Because crochet involves repeating the same movements hundreds of times, writing out "single crochet" every single time would make patterns dozens of pages long. By using a standardized system of abbreviations and symbols, a complex garment can be condensed into a few paragraphs. Once you learn to decode this shorthand, you can pick up almost any pattern in the world and understand exactly how to execute it. Decoding the Abbreviations In the crochet world, we use specific abbreviations to represent the stitches you have already learned. While there are slight variations between UK and US terminology, this book focuses on US Terms, which are the most common in modern beginner patterns. The "Big Four" Essential Abbreviations You will see these four terms in nearly every single pattern you ever attempt. Memorize these first: ch (Chain): The foundation of almost every project, as covered in The Foundation Chain. sc (Single Crochet): The short, dense stitch learned in The Single Crochet Stitch. dc (Double Crochet): The taller, more flexible stitch learned in The Double Crochet Stitch. sl st (Slip Stitch): A very short stitch used primarily to join rounds or move the yarn across a row without adding height. Supporting Terms Beyond the stitches themselves, patterns use "directional" words to tell you where to put your hook. st(s): Stitch or stitches. (Example: "sc in next 5 sts" means "single crochet in the next five stitches"). rep: Repeat. inc: Increase. (Refer back to Basic Increasing and Decreasing for how to do this). dec: Decrease. (Refer back to Basic Increasing and Decreasing for how to do this). yo: Yarn over. sp: Space. This usually refers to the gap between stitches where you should insert your hook. hdc: Half double crochet. (A stitch halfway between a single and double crochet). tr: Treble crochet. (An even taller stitch than the double crochet). Anatomy of a Written Pattern A written pattern is generally divided into three main sections: the Header, the Instructions, and the Notation. 1. The Header (The "Shopping List") Before the instructions begin, the header tells you exactly what you need. If you skip this, …
11. Beginner Project: The Simple Washcloth
From Stitches to Something Useful You have spent the last ten chapters mastering the "alphabet" of crochet. You know how to hold your hook, how to create a foundation chain, and how to execute the single and double crochet. But until now, you’ve likely been making "swatches"—small, nameless rectangles of fabric used for practice. There is a profound shift in confidence that happens the moment you stop practicing a stitch and start making an object. The washcloth is the gold standard for a first project because it is forgiving, functional, and teaches you the most important skill in garment making: maintaining a consistent edge. If you can crochet a perfectly square washcloth, you have the foundational skill required to make scarves, blankets, and even sweaters. Preparing Your Project Before you make your first stitch, you need to select the right materials. While you can use any yarn, a washcloth has a specific job: it needs to be absorbent and durable. Material Recommendations: Yarn: Choose a 100% cotton yarn. Cotton is absorbent and doesn't stretch as much as acrylic, which keeps your square from turning into an oval. Look for a "Medium" or "Worsted" weight. Hook: Use a 5.0 mm (US H-8) or 5.5 mm (US I-9) hook. Using a slightly smaller hook than the yarn label suggests creates a tighter fabric, which prevents soap and scrubbing debris from getting caught in large holes. The Project Blueprint We will be creating a square approximately 8" x 8". To achieve this, we will combine the Single Crochet for a dense, scrubby texture and the Double Crochet to build height quickly. The Pattern: Step-by-Step As you learned in Reading Crochet Patterns and Charts, patterns use shorthand. Below is the written pattern followed by a detailed breakdown of how to execute it. Pattern Abbreviations: ch: chain sc: single crochet dc: double crochet st: stitch The Pattern: Foundation: ch 26. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (25 sts) Row 2: ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. Row 3: ch 2, dc in each st across. Turn. Row 4: ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. Repeat: Repeat Rows 2–4 until the piece is a square. Finish: Fasten off and add a border. --- Phase 1: Setting the Base Your foundation chain determines the width of your washcloth. 1. The Chain: Create a Foundation Chain of 26. 2. The First Row: Working back across the chain, execute a Single Crochet in the second chain from the hook and every chain thereafter. 3. The Count: Stop and count your stitches. You should have exactly 25. If you have 24 or 26, rip it out and start …
12. Beginner Project: The Classic Granny Square
The Magic of the Motif Imagine a single, colorful square. By itself, it is a coaster. Four of them sewn together make a potholder. Twenty make a cushion cover. A hundred make a warm, nostalgic blanket. This is the power of the motif—a small, shaped piece of crochet that is worked independently and then joined to others to create a larger fabric. The Granny Square is the most iconic motif in the world of crochet. While it may look complex because it grows in a circle-like fashion to form a square, it is actually composed of one simple repeating unit: the cluster. By the end of this project, you will have combined everything you've learned so far—the foundation chain, the double crochet, and working in the round—to create a professional-looking square. Materials Needed For this project, we will use materials that provide high visibility so you can easily see where to insert your hook. Yarn: Medium weight (Worsted) yarn. A bright, solid color is recommended for your first square. Hook: 5.0 mm (US H-8) or 5.5 mm (US I-9). Scissors Yarn Needle (for weaving in ends) Understanding the Granny Cluster Before we start the square, we need to understand the "building block" of the pattern: the cluster. In previous chapters, you learned the Double Crochet (dc). A cluster is simply a group of three double crochets worked into the exact same space. Instead of moving to the next stitch for every double crochet, you will stay in one spot until you have created a little "bundle" of three stitches. These clusters are separated by chain spaces (one or two chains), which give the Granny Square its characteristic "holy" or lace-like appearance. Round 1: Creating the Center Since we have already covered the Magic Ring in Chapter 8, we will use that method here to ensure the center of your square is tight and has no visible hole. 1. Create a Magic Ring. 2. Chain 3. This counts as your first double crochet. 3. Work 2 Double Crochets into the ring. (You have now created your first cluster). 4. Chain 2. This creates your first corner space. 5. Work 3 Double Crochets into the ring. (Second cluster). 6. Chain 2. (Second corner space). 7. Work 3 Double Crochets into the ring. (Third cluster). 8. Chain 2. (Third corner space). 9. Work 3 Double Crochets into the ring. (Fourth cluster). 10. Chain 2. (Fourth corner space). 11. Join the round: Insert your hook into the first chain of the starting "chain 3" and perform a slip stitch. You now have a tiny square with four clusters and four corners. Round 2: Expanding the Square In this round, we stop working into the …
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