Free Home Improvement learning guide
DIY Home Renovation Projects for Beginners
DIY Home Renovation Projects for Beginners — a free beginner-level guide covering diy home renovation projects for beginners. Learn with clear...
What you will learn
- Safety, Planning, and Project Scope
- Essential Tools and Materials
- Fundamental Carpentry Skills
- Painting, Priming, and Finishing
- Flooring Installation Basics
- Electrical Basics for DIY Renovations
- Plumbing Fundamentals
- Tiling and Backsplash Installation
- Cabinet Refacing and Simple Installation
- Project Management, Budgeting, and Clean‑up
1. Safety, Planning, and Project Scope
A Real‑World Wake‑Up Call You’ve just finished a weekend of “quick fixes” in the guest bathroom—replacing a faucet, repainting the walls, and swapping out the towel rack. The job looks great, but when you turn on the shower you hear a metallic clang and a sudden rush of water splashes onto the floor. A loose pipe joint has burst, flooding the room and leaving you scrambling for towels, a mop, and a phone call to a plumber. That moment of surprise—and the mess that follows—is a classic reminder: any renovation, no matter how small, carries hidden hazards, hidden steps, and hidden rules. Before you dive into your next DIY project, pause. Take a breath. And start with the three pillars that keep a renovation from becoming a disaster: Safety, Planning, and Project Scope. --- Why Safety Comes First Renovation work often involves tools, materials, and environments that can be dangerous if mishandled. A solid safety foundation protects you, your household, and your home’s structure. Common Hazards in DIY Renovation | Hazard | Why It’s Dangerous | Typical Situations | |--------|-------------------|--------------------| | Electrical shock | Contact with live wires can cause burns, cardiac arrest, or death. | Cutting into walls, installing outlets, swapping light fixtures. | | Falls | Slips, trips, or falls from ladders can result in fractures or head injuries. | Working on ladders, stepping on uneven flooring, climbing on furniture. | | Sharp tools | Knives, saws, and chisels can cause cuts or amputations. | Cutting drywall, trimming lumber, using utility knives. | | Dust and particles | Inhalation of silica, asbestos, or wood dust can cause respiratory issues. | Sanding drywall, cutting concrete, removing old insulation. | | Heavy loads | Dropping a heavy object can crush limbs or damage the structure. | Lifting cabinets, moving appliances, handling bags of cement. | | Chemical exposure | Paint thinners, adhesives, and cleaning agents can be toxic or flammable. | Painting, staining wood, using mold cleaners. | | Fire | Sparks from tools or flammable materials can ignite a blaze. | Using power tools near gasoline, storing oil-soaked rags. | Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) Checklist Rule of thumb: Never start a task without the appropriate PPE. - Safety glasses or goggles – protects eyes from flying debris. - Ear protection (earplugs or earmuffs) – reduces noise exposure from power tools. - Gloves – choose material based on the task (e.g., cut‑resistant gloves for cutting, nitrile for chemicals). - Dust mask or respirator – N95 respirator for most dust; higher‑grade respirator for silica or asbestos. - Sturdy work boots – steel‑toe or composite toe with slip‑resistant soles. - Hard hat – required when working under overhead loads or in areas …
2. Essential Tools and Materials
A First‑Day Renovation: The “One‑Wall Fix” You’ve just moved into a house that needs a quick refresh. The living‑room wall is cracked, the hallway light fixture flickers, and the old vinyl flooring is scuffed. With a weekend ahead, you decide to: 1. Patch the wall crack. 2. Replace the light‑switch cover. 3. Lay a new strip of laminate flooring in the hallway. All three tasks can be completed with a modest set of hand tools, a few power tools, and the right materials. The difference between “I’ll just wing it” and “I can finish it confidently” is the toolbox you reach for and how you care for it. The sections below break down exactly what you need, why each item matters, and how to keep everything safe and ready for the next project. --- Hand Tools: The Backbone of DIY Hand tools are the workhorses you’ll use for measuring, cutting, fastening, and shaping. Even the most basic projects require a reliable set, and each tool has a specific role that, when understood, speeds up the job and reduces mistakes. | Tool | Primary Purpose | What to Look For (Beginner‑Friendly) | |------|-----------------|--------------------------------------| | Claw hammer | Driving nails and pulling them out | 16‑oz weight, smooth face, comfortable grip | | Screwdriver set (flat‑head & Phillips) | Inserting/removing screws | Magnetic tips, ergonomic handles, size range 0‑3 Phillips | | Tape measure (25‑ft) | Measuring lengths, marking cut lines | Locking blade, clear markings, durable case | | Speed square | Marking 90° and 45° angles on wood | Sturdy metal body, easy‑read scale | | Utility knife | Scoring drywall, trimming material | Retractable blade, replaceable blades | | Adjustable crescent wrench | Turning nuts/bolts of varying sizes | Full‑range adjustment, smooth jaw movement | | Pliers (needle‑nose & slip‑joint) | Gripping, bending wire, holding small parts | Non‑slip handles, hardened jaws | | Level (4‑ft torpedo) | Checking horizontality/verticality | Bubble accuracy, lightweight aluminum | | Putty knife (2‑in and 4‑in) | Applying spackle, scraping paint | Flexible stainless steel blade | | Hand saw (crosscut) | Small wood cuts where a power saw isn’t needed | Sharp teeth, comfortable grip | Using Hand Tools Safely - Grip and stance – Keep a stable stance, feet shoulder‑width apart, and hold tools near the tip for better control. - Eye protection – Even a simple hammer strike can send small particles flying; wear safety glasses (refer to the earlier PPE audit). - Sharp edges – Keep blades (utility knives, saws) sharp. Dull blades require more force, increasing the chance of slipping. - Secure workpiece – Whenever possible, clamp the material to a workbench or use a sturdy sawhorse. This …
3. Fundamental Carpentry Skills
A Real‑World Kickoff: Replacing a Wall Stud and Hanging New Baseboard Imagine you’ve just bought a modest two‑bedroom apartment. The living room feels cramped, and the baseboard along the north wall is cracked, exposing the drywall. You decide to open the wall, replace a damaged 2×4 stud, and finish the job with fresh baseboard. The whole project hinges on three fundamental skills: measuring and marking precisely, cutting cleanly, and joining pieces securely. Mastering these basics will empower you to tackle everything from building a simple bookshelf to framing a new bathroom wall. --- Accurate Measuring & Marking 1. The Tape Measure – Your First Line of Defense A tape measure is more than a strip of metal; it’s the reference point for every cut and layout. | Feature | Why It Matters | |---------|----------------| | Locking mechanism | Holds the blade in place while you step back to read a measurement, preventing accidental retraction. | | Blade tension | A taut blade gives a true reading; a floppy blade can add or subtract a millimeter. | | Extension length | Most DIY projects use a 25‑ft (7.5 m) blade—long enough for room dimensions but still manageable. | Best practice: 1. Pull the blade out fully and lock it. 2. Place the “0” end against the reference edge (e.g., the edge of a stud or the end of a board). 3. Read the measurement at the point where the blade meets the object—don’t rely on the “inch‑mark” at the blade’s edge; the true measurement is where the metal line aligns with the object. 2. The Framing Square – Ensuring Right Angles A framing square (also called a carpenter’s square) has a long arm (the “blade”) and a shorter, wider arm (the “body”). It serves two primary purposes: Checking 90° corners – Place the inside of the body against one edge of the material; the blade should line up perfectly with the adjacent edge. Marking cut lines – Align the blade with a reference edge, then slide the body to the desired distance and draw a line across the workpiece. Quick tip: The “tongue” of the square (the short arm) is calibrated in inches; you can use it to lay out common stud spacing (e.g., 16 in or 24 in on center) without a measuring tape. 3. Layout Workflow: Measure Twice, Mark Once 1. Identify reference points – For a wall stud, locate the top plate and bottom plate; for a board, find the edge that will be flush with the existing surface. 2. Measure the required length – Use the tape measure, lock the blade, and note the number. 3. Transfer the measurement – With the framing square, mark the cut …
4. Painting, Priming, and Finishing
A Fresh Start: Turning a Drab Living Room into a Show‑Room You’ve just moved into a house that feels a little too “personal” for your taste. The walls are a faded beige, the ceiling sports a faint water‑stain, and the trim is scuffed from years of family life. You imagine a crisp, light‑gray wall and a clean white ceiling that will instantly lift the space. The vision is clear, but the path from imagination to reality is littered with questions: Will the old paint bleed through? How do I avoid streaky rollers? What’s the safest way to dispose of leftover paint? This chapter walks you step‑by‑step through the entire process—cleaning, patching, priming, painting, and finishing—so you can achieve a professional look without a professional price tag. --- Understanding Surface Preparation A flawless finish begins long before the first brushstroke. Think of the surface as a canvas; any dust, cracks, or unevenness will show up in the final coat. 1. Clean the Surface Why it matters: Dirt and grease prevent paint from adhering properly, leading to peeling later on. Steps 1. Remove loose debris – Use a soft‑bristle broom or vacuum with a brush attachment. 2. Wash the walls – For most interior walls, a solution of warm water and a few drops of mild dish soap works well. Apply with a sponge or a clean rag, working from top to bottom. Rinse with clean water and let dry completely (at least 1–2 hours). 3. De‑grease stubborn spots – For kitchen or bathroom walls, mix equal parts white vinegar and water, or use a commercial degreaser. 4. Check for mold or mildew – If present, treat with a 1 part bleach to 3 parts water solution, wear a dust mask (as introduced in Safety, Planning, and Project Scope), scrub, rinse, and allow to dry. Pro tip: A quick “hand‑test”—run your hand across the wall. If it feels sticky or powdery, the surface isn’t ready for paint. 2. Repair Imperfections Cracks, nail holes, and dents are inevitable, especially in older homes. | Issue | Recommended Fix | |-------|-----------------| | Small nail holes (≤ ¼ in) | Fill with lightweight spackle. | | Medium holes (¼–½ in) | Use a joint‑compound or patch kit. | | Larger cracks or gaps | Apply a flexible filler (e.g., acrylic caulk) before spackling. | | Dented plaster | Scrape loose material, then apply spackle. | Repair Process 1. Scrape any loose paint or plaster with a putty knife. 2. Apply filler using a putty knife, pressing firmly to fill the void. 3. Smooth the surface by feathering the edges; the goal is a level transition with the surrounding wall. 4. Let cure according to the product’s …
5. Flooring Installation Basics
A Quick Turn‑Around: Turning a Drab Basement into a Play‑Ready Space The Miller family bought a fixer‑upper two years ago. Their biggest complaint? “The floor feels like a cold slab.” After clearing out the old carpet, they measured the room, ordered a click‑lock laminate kit, and—within a weekend—had a bright, warm surface perfect for a kids’ playroom. Their secret wasn’t magic; it was a systematic approach to subfloor assessment, moisture control, and proper installation. Follow the same process, and you’ll turn any room from “meh” to “wow” without hiring a pro. --- 1. Assessing the Subfloor – The Foundation of a Good Floor A floor’s durability is only as strong as the surface it rests on. Before the first plank touches the room, you must know what you’re working with. 1.1 Identify Your Subfloor Type | Subfloor | Typical Location | Common Issues | |----------|------------------|----------------| | Concrete slab | Ground‑level basements, garages | Moisture migration, uneven patches | | Plywood over joists | Upper floors, finished basements | Sagging, loose screws, gaps | | OSB (Oriented Strand Board) | New construction, remodels | Swelling with moisture, edge delamination | Tip: If you’re unsure, tap the surface with a screwdriver. A solid “thud” usually means concrete; a hollow sound points to wood framing. 1.2 Check for Levelness 1. Visual inspection – look for obvious high spots or depressions. 2. Straightedge test – place a 4‑ft level or a straight 2×4 across the floor; any gaps indicate a need for leveling. 3. Digital level or laser – for larger areas, a laser level quickly maps out multiple points. Rule of thumb: A floor should be within 3 mm (1⁄8 in) over a 2 m (6 ft) span. Anything beyond that will produce noticeable “lips” under laminate or vinyl. 1.3 Measure Moisture - Concrete slabs often retain moisture. Use a pin‑type moisture meter (refer to Essential Tools and Materials). - Acceptable reading for most laminates: ≤ 3 % moisture content. - If the reading is higher, you’ll need a moisture barrier (see Section 2). 1.4 Clean & Repair - Sweep or vacuum all debris—dust particles can act like sandpaper under the flooring. - Patch holes with a suitable filler (e.g., floor‑leveling compound for concrete, wood filler for plywood). - Secure loose boards with screws; replace any rotted or severely warped sections. Safety reminder: Wear your dust mask or respirator when sanding or applying compounds, and keep the area well‑ventilated. --- 2. Moisture Management – Barriers and Underlayment Moisture is the silent enemy of most floating floors. A proper barrier protects the new floor and extends its life. 2.1 When a Barrier Is Required - Concrete or masonry that shows any moisture reading above …
6. Electrical Basics for DIY Renovations
A Dim Room, A Bright Idea You walk into the living room after a long day and instantly notice the single, flickering bulb hanging over the sofa. The rest of the house is well‑lit, but this corner feels like a forgotten corner of a museum. Replacing that bulb with a modern LED fixture would instantly lift the mood, and you’d save a few dollars on your electric bill. What’s stopping you? Most homeowners hesitate because “electricity is scary.” Yet, with the right knowledge, a few basic tools, and strict adherence to safety—already covered in Safety, Planning, and Project Scope—you can confidently replace a light fixture or add a switch. This chapter gives you the fundamentals you need to work safely, understand the wiring you encounter, and finish the job with confidence. --- 1. Essential Electrical Terminology Before you touch a wire, learn the language of the home’s electrical system. Each term is bolded the first time it appears; you’ll see it repeatedly throughout the chapter. - Voltage (V) – The electrical “pressure” that pushes electrons through a circuit, measured in volts. In U.S. residential wiring, most outlets deliver 120 V; larger appliances may use 240 V. - Amperage (A) – The flow of electrical current, measured in amperes (amps). A standard 15‑amp circuit can safely carry up to 15 A continuously. - Circuit – A closed loop that allows electricity to travel from the power source, through devices (lights, outlets, appliances), and back again. Think of it as a circular road; if a section is blocked, traffic (current) stops. - Breaker – A safety device inside the main service panel that automatically trips (opens) when a circuit exceeds its rated amperage, preventing overheating and fires. - Ground – A safety path that directs stray electricity safely into the earth. Ground wires are typically bare copper or green‑insulated. - Neutral – The return path for current back to the source, usually a white‑insulated wire. It completes the circuit. - Hot (Live) – The energized wire that carries current from the breaker to the device; it is usually black or red. - GFCI (Ground‑Fault Circuit Interrupter) – A protective outlet that detects an imbalance between hot and neutral currents (as small as 4–6 mA) and shuts off power in milliseconds, preventing electric shock in wet locations (kitchens, bathrooms, outdoors). - Load – Any device that consumes electricity (light bulbs, switches, appliances). - Rated Capacity – The maximum voltage and amperage a device (breaker, outlet, wire) is designed to handle safely. Understanding these basics lets you read wiring diagrams, match wires correctly, and recognize when something is out of spec. --- 2. Mapping the Existing Wiring 2.1 Locate the Circuit Breaker 1. Open …
7. Plumbing Fundamentals
A Dripping Faucet That Won’t Stop You’re in the middle of a weekend bathroom refresh when a single drop‑per‑second from the kitchen sink turns into a steady stream. Water pools on the cabinet, the floor gets slick, and the sound of the leak drowns out the music you’ve queued. The first instinct is to call a plumber, but a few minutes of calm, a quick glance at the water meter, and the right tools can stop the mess—and save you a hefty bill. This chapter shows you how to identify common plumbing parts, shut off the water safely, and perform three core DIY tasks that cover the majority of beginner‑level plumbing work: swapping a faucet, installing a showerhead, and fixing a small pipe leak. By the end, you’ll have the confidence to tackle these jobs without panic, and the knowledge to keep the water under control while you work. --- 1. Plumbing Vocabulary You’ll Use Every Day Before you reach for a wrench, make sure the names of the parts you’ll be handling are clear. The following terms appear on most hardware store shelves and in the instructions for the fixtures you’ll install. | Term | What It Is | Typical Use | |------|------------|-------------| | PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) | A lightweight, white plastic pipe that is rigid and sold in sections with solvent‑weld fittings. | Drain‑age lines, vent pipes, and outdoor irrigation. | | Copper | A reddish‑brown metal pipe that is rigid (type L or M) or flexible (type K). It can be soldered, brazed, or pressed. | Hot‑water supply lines, refrigerant lines, and outdoor water service. | | Shut‑off valve | A valve that stops water flow to a specific fixture (often a quarter‑turn ball valve) or to the entire house (the main valve). | Isolating a faucet, toilet, or whole‑home water supply. | | Trap | A curved section of pipe (usually P‑trap under sinks) that holds water to block sewer gases from entering the home. | Every sink, tub, and shower drain. | | Slip‑fit connection | A non‑threaded joint where two pipe ends are pressed together and sealed with a gasket or O‑ring; common on modern faucet and showerhead fittings. | Quick‑install fixtures that require no soldering or glue. | Tip: When you see a part labeled “PVC ½‑in.”, the “½‑in.” refers to the nominal pipe size, not the exact outer diameter. It’s a standardized way to match fittings. --- 2. Locating and Turning Off the Main Water Supply A leak or fixture replacement is safest when the water is completely stopped. The process builds on the safety checklist from the Safety, Planning, and Project Scope chapter—remember your PPE audit and quick shut‑off mindset. 2.1 …
8. Tiling and Backsplash Installation
A Kitchen Backsplash That Turns Heads You’ve just installed a brand‑new stove and the sleek, white cabinets are in place. The only thing missing is the splash of color and protection behind the cooktop. Imagine a bright, 4‑inch‑by‑4‑inch ceramic tile backsplash that not only looks great but also shields your walls from grease and water. In the next few pages you’ll walk through every step required to turn that vision into reality—starting with a clean, level wall and ending with a grout‑sealed, sparkling finish. --- 1. Preparing the Surface A flawless tile job begins with a surface that is clean, flat, and structurally sound. Skipping this step almost always leads to cracked tiles, uneven grout lines, or a finished wall that looks “off‑kilter.” 1.1 Remove Existing Materials 1. Turn off electricity at the circuit breaker for any outlets or light switches that will be under the backsplash (recall the PPE audit from Safety, Planning, and Project Scope). 2. Scrape away old wallpaper, paint, or previous backsplash material using a putty knife. 3. If you encounter drywall that is soft or water‑damaged, cut out the compromised sections and replace with new drywall. 1.2 Clean and Inspect - Sweep or vacuum the wall to eliminate dust and debris. - Wipe the surface with a mild detergent solution and let it dry completely. - Check for level using a 4‑foot level or a laser level. Mark any high or low spots. 1.3 Level the Wall - Low spots: Apply a thin layer of joint compound and feather it out. - High spots: Sand them down with 80‑grit sandpaper or a drywall sander. - For walls that are out of level by more than 1/8 in over a 4‑ft span, consider a self‑leveling compound (follow the manufacturer’s instructions). 1.4 Prime (If Needed) If the wall is newly installed drywall or the surface is very porous, apply a primer recommended for tile installations. This improves adhesion of the thinset mortar and helps prevent moisture migration. --- 2. Planning the Layout and Measuring A well‑thought‑out layout avoids awkward cuts at the edges and creates a balanced visual rhythm. 2.1 Measure the Wall 1. Measure the height from the countertop to the top of the wall area you’ll tile. 2. Measure the width of the backsplash region (usually from one side cabinet to the other). 3. Record both dimensions to the nearest 1/16 in. 2.2 Determine Tile Size and Pattern - Standard ceramic tiles are often 4 × 4 in, 6 × 6 in, or 12 × 12 in. - Larger tiles make a space feel bigger; smaller tiles add texture. - Decide whether you’ll use a straight (grid), running bond (brick), or diagonal pattern. 2.3 Dry …
9. Cabinet Refacing and Simple Installation
Planning Your Cabinet Refresh Assess the Existing Situation Imagine walking into a kitchen where the cabinets have survived two decades of cooking, splashes, and daily wear. The doors are faded, the hardware is mismatched, and the overall look feels dated. Yet the cabinet boxes themselves are still solid. This is a classic candidate for cabinet refacing—a cost‑effective way to achieve a fresh appearance without tearing out the entire structure. First‑step checklist - Open every door and drawer to verify that the internal frames are sturdy and free of rot. - Note any warping, splits, or loose joints; these may require repair before refacing. - Determine whether the layout (spacing, height, and depth) will accommodate new ready‑made cabinets if you decide to replace the boxes entirely. Refacing vs. Full Replacement | Criteria | Refacing (Veneer/Paint) | Full Replacement (Ready‑Made Units) | |----------|------------------------|--------------------------------------| | Cost | 30‑50 % of full replacement | Highest material cost | | Labor | Minimal demolition; mainly surface work | More demolition, leveling, and anchoring | | Timeline | 1‑2 days for a typical kitchen | 3‑5 days depending on size | | Impact on Existing Layout | Keeps original dimensions | May require adjustments to countertops, backsplashes, and appliances | If the cabinet boxes are sound and the layout works for your new design, refacing is usually the best route for beginners. Choose full replacement only when the frames are compromised or you need a different configuration. Measure Twice, Order Once Accurate measurements are the backbone of any successful cabinet project. Use a steel tape (refer to Essential Tools and Materials) and record: - Width of each cabinet opening (inside the wall). - Height from the floor to the top of the cabinet opening. - Depth of the cabinet box (most kitchen cabinets are 24 inches deep; adjust for custom spaces). Create a measurement sheet with columns for Cabinet ID, Width, Height, Depth, and Notes (e.g., “needs extra ½‑in. clearance for dishwasher”). When ordering veneer sheets, paint, or ready‑made cabinets, add a 5 % allowance for waste and errors. --- Safety First Before you lift a door or swing a hammer, revisit the safety principles covered in Safety, Planning, and Project Scope. Conduct a quick PPE audit: - Safety glasses or goggles – protect eyes from splinters and dust. - Gloves – safeguard hands when handling sharp veneer edges or heavy cabinets. - Dust mask or respirator – especially important when sanding or sanding veneer. - Sturdy work boots – provide traction on wet or uneven floors. Turn off any nearby electrical circuits (refer to Electrical Basics for DIY Renovations) if you’ll be working close to outlets or light switches. Keep a fire extinguisher within reach, …
10. Project Management, Budgeting, and Clean‑up
A Real‑World Snapshot: The Weekend Bathroom Refresh Imagine you’ve just finished the Safety, Planning, and Project Scope checklist for a modest bathroom refresh. You have a clear list of tasks—remove the old vanity, install a new sink, re‑tile the floor, and repaint the walls. The work will span two weekends, and you’ve set a $1,200 limit for materials and supplies. With the plan in place, the next step is turning that plan into a trackable budget, a task checklist, and a clean‑up routine that keeps your newly installed tiles and paint pristine. The sections below walk you through each of these tools, using the bathroom refresh as a running example. By the end, you’ll have a reusable spreadsheet template, a practical checklist, a clean‑up protocol, and a simple post‑project review process you can apply to any DIY renovation. --- 1. Building a Simple Budget Spreadsheet 1.1 Why a Spreadsheet Matters A spreadsheet does three things for a beginner DIYer: 1. Makes costs visible before you spend. 2. Helps you compare estimates with actual receipts, so you can spot overruns early. 3. Creates a record you can reuse for future projects, reducing guesswork each time. Even a basic spreadsheet—no fancy formulas required—will give you that clarity. 1.2 Spreadsheet Layout: Columns to Include | Column | What to Enter | Why It Helps | |--------|--------------|--------------| | Item / Description | “12‑in. porcelain tile”, “PVC pipe joint”, “paint (1‑gal)” | Identifies each purchase. | | Quantity | Number of pieces or gallons needed. | Lets you calculate total cost. | | Unit Cost | Price per piece or per gallon (from store flyer or online). | Provides the cost basis. | | Estimated Total | Quantity × Unit Cost (use a simple =B2C2 formula). | Shows your projected spend. | | Actual Cost | Amount you actually paid (receipt). | Enables variance tracking. | | Notes | “Buy extra tiles for cuts”, “Sale ends 7/31”. | Captures special instructions or reminders. | Tip: Keep the spreadsheet in a cloud folder (Google Drive, OneDrive) so you can update it from your phone while on the hardware store aisle. 1.3 Sample Budget for the Bathroom Refresh | Item / Description | Quantity | Unit Cost | Estimated Total | Actual Cost | Notes | |--------------------|----------|----------|----------------|-------------|-------| | 12‑in. porcelain tile | 40 | $2.50 | $100 | $98 | 5% extra for cuts | | Tile adhesive (1‑gal) | 2 | $15.00 | $30 | $30 | Same brand as tiles | | Grout (1‑gal) | 1 | $12.00 | $12 | $12 | White grout | | New vanity (incl. sink) | 1 | $350 | $350 | $345 | Discount coupon | | Faucet …
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